Santa Maria in Trastevere

Considered the finest of the churches in Trastevere (a section on the west bank of the Tiber, south of the Vatican), the Basilica of Santa Maria is said to be the first church dedicated to Mary, the mother of God. Undisputedly one of the oldest churches in the city, its basic floor plan and wall structure date back to the mid 4th century.

The first church on this site was believed to have been built in 220 by Pope St. Callixtus I. The site was chosen because, according to legend, a stream of pure oil flowed from the earth here in 38 BC. An inscription on the floor near the altar marks this spot.

The church was restored in both the 5th and 8th centuries and in 1140, under Pope Innocent II, was re-erected on its old foundation and built in a Romanesque style, though its original basilica plan remained. Many of the materials used in the rebuilding of Santa Maria in Trastevere were from the ancient Baths of Caracalla. Some minor remodeling was done in the 18th century, including the addition of a portico in 1702. The portico is adorned with statues of four popes.

The most attractive part of this church are the many authentic mosaics that were added in the 12th and 13th century. The mosaics on the facade depict Mary and 10 virgins. According to some historians, only those with burning lamps were virgins while the other two were widows. The two people at the foot of Maria represent the financiers of the church building.

The restored mosaics on the apse vault and the triumphal arch date from about 1140. The triumphal arch mosaic depicts the Four Evangelists, the prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah, caged birds representing sin, seven candlesticks, and a Chi-Rho (Christogram). The apse vault represents the Coronation of the Virgin and Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church. Other mosaics represent the life of the Virgin Mary. A fresco in the Chapel of Altemps is a Baroque depiction of the Council of Nicea.

This church is the burial place of Pope Callixtus I and Lorenzo Cardinal Campeggio and several other prominent church officials. Also found here is a relic of Saint Apollonia and a piece of the Holy Sponge, that which was dipped in vinegar and offered to Christ to drink when he was hanging on the cross on Good Friday.

Outside the church, an attractive ancient fountain that was restored by Carlo Fontana in the 17th century offers a great photo opportunity and is a popular gathering place for locals.